Floor and hearth half done

We have more than half of the floor boards installed, and the hearth is complete (half a hearth in the photo below). We ended up using ceramic tile for the hearth, because it provided a lower profile than brick and seemed easier to keep clean. State fire codes mandated the use of cement board under the tile. All of the windows are installed (well, those in the finished cordwood walls, anyway). The wood cookstove and Jotul wood stove get installed tomorrow.

We have done pretty well, doing all of this work together, while living out of boxes in a rented trailer, only getting slightly annoyed with each other now and then. We were warned that cordwood (and other) building projects can take their toll on relationships, but for the most part the process has been surprisingly satisfying. Lately, we have discovered the art of parallel play. That is, projects that require two people, we do together. Projects that can be done by one person, we assign. So we've been laying floor boards together, because they're big and heavy and need one person compressing while another is securing--- but I built the hearth while Joe installed windows. Parallel play. :)

Regarding the photos below: if you remember, we built a rubble-trench foundation. Which means that the three courses of hemlock grade beams you see sit atop a well-tamped crushed-rock berm that fills a drained trench (which sits on ledge). Any water that finds its way to the grade beams (very little because of the site grading and the roof overhangs) drains away. On the outside, the grade beams are surrounded by an insulated apron (rigid foam at about 35 degrees) to keep the ground around the outside of the house warm and dry. Inside the grade beam, we put some foam and bubble-wrap barriers for a bit of extra protection from any drafts that might find their way through 18 inches of hemlock. We covered the ground under the house with gravel, to act as a capillary break for moisture. The floor joists are 16" on center, and we added mid-joist support in the form of bricks with shims, and large blocks where heavy items such as woodstoves and water tanks would be installed.

Laying the floor joists

Here's a brief update on how I did the floor joists. We decided to do it before laying the walls for a couple of reasons. First, it got the material inside and under the roof, and second, since we also decided not to lay the floor just yet, it gave us a place to stack the lumber for the floor, also inside and under the roof. We decided not to lay the floor in order to keep the floor boards from getting dirty and having mortar dropped on them while we were doing the walls.

As with so many of the segments of this project, I had to decide how to manage the work in ways I could physically handle the materials, since I worked alone most of the time. The house is 40 ' long x 22' wide on the inside with a central grade beam on an 11.5' center. We decided to use 2x6s for the floor joists on 16" centers. This worked out to one joist nailed to the east and west grade beams on each short side, and 30 joists hung from Timberlock joist hangers between the center grade beam and the long grade beams.

What worked for me was to lay the joists in groups of 6 each. First, I'd measure and mark the 16" centers on the grade beams, then I'd nail in the joist hangers. After the hangers were mounted, I'd measure the the length between the centers of each set of two hangers. I did this because with the rough cut hemlock grade beams there were slight bows and slight differences in the actual widths of the grade beams. Once I had a set of six measurements, I'd cut the floor joists to length. Then I'd mount them in the hangers, check to make sure they were level across the span, and with the joists next to them, and finally toenail them in. I could do about 6 joists in an hour.






























The above picture shows the north half of the house with all 32 joists laid. There's not much more to say about this, it's pretty basic stuff.